Priscilla Lloyd A diamond ring can look beautifully simple from above, but reveal an entirely different character from the side. Hidden halo rings offer a delicate row of smaller diamonds on one side, adding sparkle to part of the design normally left bare by other designs.
It’s a subtle addition but the positioning can impact setting height, stone security, wedding band access and cleaning access – worth knowing before choosing the design.
It’s all the details that set apart a hidden halo engagement ring hidden halo that actually works from one that simply poses well.
What’s the Difference Between Hidden Halo and Halo Rings?
It boils down to positioning.
Traditional halo settings use diamonds around the sides of your centre stone (and will extend the face-up appearance of your centre diamond). A hidden halo sets its smaller diamonds underneath (or in line with) the centre stone, typically along a gallery rail or basket.
From directly above the ring may look like a traditional solitaire, but side profile shots reveal the accent diamonds.
The choice between a traditional halo and a hidden halo matters
depending on what you’d like the design to achieve.
While a traditional halo setting can make a modestly-sized diamond appear larger, the hidden halo generally maintains the face-up dimensions of you centre diamonds while adding extra dazzle.
The difference will also depend on the level of recess in your basket – a deep halo may only be visible in certain angles, while one that’s level with the girdle of your centre diamond may still be seen in side profile shots.
The Centre Diamond Matters Just As Much As Everything Else
While adding little diamonds underneath your engagement ring won’t fix proportions or an unsuitable centre stone, the reality is your main diamond will dominate the look – especially in pictures from directly above.
Solving the equation will depend on the choice of your centre stone, the type of hidden halo – and other design considerations.
Round brilliant designs match well with a rounded hidden halo. Oval and pear-shaped stones require a hidden halo that follows the shape of the longer sides, while emerald- and radiant-cut diamonds tend to pair with more squared galaries.
This isn’t an exact science but it’s all part of visual storytelling – choosing a narrow “tail” type halo for an oval or pear-cut diamond creates a slender look, while choosing a full basket around the same diamond can add more body to the appearance in side profile.
Instead of thinking about carat weights, keep in mind that visual appeal can be maximised by thinking about your diamond’s proportions. Two stones that weigh the same carat can have dramatically differing lengths, widths and depths when measured to see how they’re held in place by the setting.
Lab grown diamonds, however, always warrant an independent grading report identifying what you’ve actually purchased. Take a closer look at the cut quality along with photos or video when you see the grading report – it’s a good guide, but no substitute for physically inspecting a diamond.
A Beautiful Design Can Also be a Comfortable One
Those glossy side profile shots of hidden halo rings tend to focus on the detail in the side gallery, but seldom demonstrate how it looks and feels to wear the ring. The relative height of your centre diamond can make a difference to the visibility of your accent diamonds, though and increase your risk of snagging clothing on the ring or catching it on other objects.
Lowering the setting generally makes for a less intrusive appearance, although that puts more distance between your basket and a straight wedding band and may prevent a tight fit between bands.
These are details to consider depending on your lifestyle but there’s also design to consider – you’ll always get a slightly bulkier appearance in side profile if the metalwork is closer to your centre diamond, while a wider or more lab made diamonds basket has less ability to conform to curves and angles of a contoured wedding band.
If you routinely wear gloves at work, or frequently lift items or operate with your hands, consider a more compact basket with well-finished claws that won’t catch on every object you touch – people who are charmed by the detail of a hidden halo may find a slightly taller setting preferable.
Neither choice is right or wrong, but always consider the impact on your everyday life.
Thinking About Photos in a Different Light Will Help You See the Design
Remember that most of the time engagement rings are photographed from directly above, unless it’s a side shot.
Compare the photos taken from directly above, as well as photographs in side profile and a slight angle to understand whether the addition of the extra diamonds adds value to the ring.
The Wedding Band Compatibility Question Can Be Addressed Early
While your engagement ring may make for a harmonious and balanced picture, an unsuitable choice in rings may leave you with an unsatisfactory gap between the rings.
This frequently occurs when the lower gallery of the setting intrudes on the area you might expect a straight wedding band to occupy or when the hidden halo sits very close to this area.
This is definitely a consideration worth raising with a jeweller before approving a custom ring design – in theory, a higher setting will make a straight welding band possible without it catching objects at the same time your ring does. However in practice it may still be desirable to use a slightly contoured band with a lower setting.
Ideally, have both bands in position when examining a pairing and always observe the side profile of any combination, or ask for a render that demonstrates compatibility. As a rule of thumb it’s probably easiest to ensure the width of a band matches across the entire piece (a narrow band won’t look right next to a wide band).
Matching wedding band designs will be simplest when designed together by a jeweller so the two rings work as a single entity.
Metal Choice Impacts the Apparent Differences Between The Diamonds
The choice of a white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum finish will affect the way the diamonds at the centre, in this setting, and along the basket work together and stand out.
White gold gives you the brightness of the precious metal without significant difference between the finish and any colourless diamonds, although there’s an inevitable wear and risk of needing replating with rhodium.
Yellow gold, on the other hand, provides contrast and can balance a “hidden” halo of smaller diamonds in white gold mounting or closely fitting claws.
Rose gold will intensify the colour differences with accents of rose and may well highlight the subtle detail of a gallery.
Platinum is always a strong choice when you’d like a precious, naturally white finish that patinas over time without requiring rhodium plating.
Whatever choice takes your fancy, be sure to check how well the little halo diamonds are held in place – even delicate work requires enough surrounding metal to keep individual little diamonds secure.
Caring for ExtraDiamonds Just Takes A Little Extra Care
There are more points of entry with a hidden halo than a plain ring, and each smaller diamond will demand special care to prolong the life of both the metalwork and the setting. This means paying special attention to the points that fasten each little diamond. Hand creams, soaps and oils can build up around the gallery in daily life, especially since the extra diamonds are hidden in position – be sure to gently clean these away, ideally with warm water, mild dishwashing liquid and a soft brush.
However, don’t risk damaging delicate settings by using excessive force on grime or other dirt around the gallery. It’s best to avoid harsh brushes and abrasive cleaners. In the meantime, regular professional inspections (that will uncover potential issues like worn prongs) will give you a solid idea of what to look out for, and to remind owners to take rings off before participating in intense activities.
The hidden halo itself isn’t any more fragile than a standard setting, but a ring’s overall durability will depend on factors like construction quality, finishing quality on each part and level of contact.
What to Ask About When Ordering An Engagement Ring From An Australian Supplier
When ordering a custom-built or bespoke engagement ring, Australia-based customers should confirm the details of a purchase when it comes to the deposit, not when making the initial contact.
You need to confirm that the quoted budget for the engagement ring encompasses the cost for the central diamond, the extras in the hidden halo, any precious metal and additional customisations.
Lab-grown diamonds require confirmation that the centre stone being supplied to you matches an individual grading report for the stone being sent to you – it is also important to learn what the retailer considers to be acceptable practice in relation to ring sizing, repairs and substitution of the individual accent diamond.
Sizing is always of concern when ordering online so never assume your finger size is accurate based on a ring you already own. Your measurement should always compared against a jewellers size chart.
If you expect the engagement ring to go alongside a wedding band, provide a jeweller with the size as well, because it could impact your choice in settings or basket height.
